Until the 19th century, no one in Ukraine embroidered with a cross. There was a technique of cross-stitching, but it was impossible to see shirts embroidered only with a cross. Everything changed when the Frenchman Henrich Brocard brought perfume and soap to Russia. Along with the cheap soap, buyers received a postcard with patterns. The cross began to dominate and over time became the main technique, almost supplanting all others. And embroidery based on such samples was called "soap" or "brocade".

Women of present-day Central and Eastern Ukraine, which at that time was part of the Russian Empire, literally hunted for Brokar's brochures.

The "native" technique for women from Poltava has long been the counting surface (slat) technique.

The handkerchief from my family collection is embroidered with a cross. (XX century)