I always thought that surfing is beautiful only in pictures. But one day I had the opportunity to try. To be honest, at first I was sure that everything would end with a shameful fall. And so it happened, only there was not one fall, but a whole series.

The first thing that surprised me was that the board was so heavy that I could barely carry it to the water. The instructor smiled cheerfully, and I thought: "Why did I agree to this?" The water splashed coolness, and my heart began to beat faster - either from fear or from delight.

Attempt number one: the wave picked me up, and I fell forward so quickly that I did not even have time to breathe. Attempt number two: I finally stood up, but the joy lasted exactly three seconds.

And only on the third time I felt that I could balance. It was like a small miracle: I was flying forward, the ocean was roaring around me, and inside there was a feeling as if the whole world had become mine.

Of course, I didn’t become a professional in one day, but that’s not even the point. Surfing taught me that it’s okay to fall. The main thing is to get up again. And sometimes it’s in those moments when you stop controlling everything around you that the most real pleasure comes.